🔗 Share this article

When curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated high among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.